Day 9 for Bob's Trek


If all is going according to plan:

Day 9: Dingboche (4360m)

(Trekking: approx 6 hours)
From Thyangboche we descend through forest of birch, fir, juniper and rhododendron, to the nunnery at Debuche. Along the way we keep an eye open for blood and Danfe pheasant, musk deer and, high on the steep slopes of the valley, Himalayan tahr. After half an hour of fairly level walking we cross the Imja Khola River and gradually ascend to the village of Pangboche, where the peak of Ama Dablam dominates the skyline. We take lunch here and perhaps view the beautiful monastery that once housed a scalp reputedly belonging to the legendary yeti. In the afternoon our route ascends gradually high above the Imja Khola River and passing tea houses at Orsho before crossing river again and old glacial moraines, on the way to our lodge in the settlement of Dingboche. The scenery is spectacular and although Everest here disappears behind the Lhotse-Nuptse ridge, the huge peaks that tower above the eastern end of the valley are ample compensation. We are now almost completely above the tree line and, in clear conditions, can look out for spectacular sunsets here and on Ama Dablam. Today’s walk is quite tiring due to the altitude, so it is important to take notice of your trek leader’s advice and recommendations regarding rest and fluid intake.

Thanks for the link Speedy Geoff!

What an exhausting weekend!


Very nice, mind you, but after the PRB took me out for a coffee at the Botanic Gardens after he had completed the 2nd 20k leg of the Canberra Two Day Walk, we then thought we would see what the Paul's Sports Warehouse at the Brand Depot was like having seen that they were having a sale.

I was going to say "Big Mistake", but that does not do it justice. This planning regulation side stepping monstrosity rose from the land beside the airport a year or two ago amid some controversy. Neither being a 'shopper', nor particularly a 'warehouse shopper' it has been easy to avoid this place until now. Having paid a visit, I now know to continue to do so in the future. Yuck.

We went in search of another late afternoon coffee, first to Deek's at Pearce (which was shut), then a bite to eat, Chifely (closed), and then the fag end of the day at Woden Plaza. Most places were shutting up, but we could grab a cup at Babar, but not until we snuck into the Dick Smith Powerhouse next door first to look at and fondle the HTC TyTN II Smart PDA / Phone / GPS thingy. It was heavier than it looks, although still a very compact unit. I hadn't been able to suss out from the web site where micro SD card went, and if it was easily hot swappable, so being able to caress and covert was good.

I was becoming increasingly tired, and couldn't stop yawning (coffee, looking at the shops so tiring!), and came home and collapsed into sleep without much tempting.

This morning I thought that I was well and truly ready for my planned 'take myself to coffee under my own steam' each day plan. I got up. I made breakfast. The ulcer, gut, whatever stuff then objected so stridently to breakie that I had to lie down. Before I knew it, I was just waking up and it was 3 in the afternoon. So much for the plan.

I've bathed and changed, and that is as far as I've got since then, I remain half dressed, bare footed and too tired to go out. It's all rather frustrating, this great fatigue, making it difficult to plan anything ahead of time. I have a dental check up on Wednesday, but I'm tempted to postpone it for the moment, I don't feel confident that I can get there in time and keep my mouth open.


As I lay me down to sleep last night, my PDA pinged with an incoming email from the Boy Harlow in Namche Bazar.

The trip is superb: I'm very well, the weather is perfect and the scenery is spectacular. At Namche there are several Internet cafes, but nowhere else on the trek, so you won't be getting any more emails from me for a while after we leave here on Saturday morning.

Kathmandu was as I expected: full of life, good food and friendly locals, but poor infrastructure and dusty and very dirty. We had a trip to the main Hindu temple, with cremations proceeding and crowds of devoted praying and making offerings. We also visited a Buddhist stupa, which was in contrast to the rest of the city: peaceful and clean. It is surrounded by a Tibetan community, with several reasonable looking hotels and lots of restaurants, and appeals to me as an area to stay when I return.
The trek for the first 3 days has been fairly easy, but once we leave here it will get harder and harder. We've trekked along a river valley, surrounded by forest and immense mountains. The only means of transport from Lucla - the town into which we flew from Kathmandu - is the path along which we travelled. It is highway, with many trekkers - in groups and individually - and enderless streams of porters loaded down with huge packs resting on their backs by a strap across their foreheads, interspersed with caravans of yaks also loaded down. All the materials for construction and all the necessities of life for all the villages we visit come in this way. The mountain sides are covered with small pine forest, except where it has been cleared for cultivation.
The weather is crystal clear each morning, but cloud steadily increase during the day. The overnight temperatures so far have been about 5-6, and daytime about 13-15. I'm sure both figures will drop as we climb.
There are 12 in our group: 2 pommies, 2 South Africans and 8 Aussies. We have the main guide, Tisha, who is very competent and experienced, supported by 4 assistant guides and several porters. The guides ensure that we travel slowly, allowing us to acclimatise and keeping the group together. I'm sharing a room with Trent, a 59 year old from Adelaide and a good bloke.
Our room looks onto a large mountain, over which immense snow covered peaks tower straight up.
I have been sending emails in reply, but no response as yet.

Bob's plan for today is as follows:

Day 7: Thyangboche (3875m)

(Trekking: approx 6 hours)
From Namche Bazaar, we climb towards the park headquarters and follow a contouring trail high above the Dudh Kosi River. Above Namche the route to Thyangboche becomes visible with the monastery seen nestling below the summit of Everest and surrounded by other Himalayan peaks. On today’s walk there are opportunities to spot local wildlife including the beautiful Danfe pheasant, often seen among the birch and silver fir forest between Shanasa and Trashinga, and Himalayan Thar, on the high ground above the trail. After reaching the reforestation nursery at Trashinga, the trail drops steeply before crossing the Dudh Kosi River at Phunkitenga (3250m) where we take lunch. In the afternoon we pass water-driven prayer wheels and ascend, initially steeply, through pine, fir, black juniper and rhododendron forests towards Thyangboche. The monastery and our lodge are located in a beautiful meadow surrounded by towering Himalayan peaks in a truly peaceful and tranquil setting. The most notable peaks seen from here are Kantega, Ama Dablam (perhaps the most beautiful peak in the region) and, of course, Mount Everest.
From the internet (I expect a intellectual property copyright free version from the Nepalese tourist site), I have included a photo of Namche Bazar.

Not too shabby huh?

A non-day


I'm not sure why ~ but after a slow, but positive day yesterday, today was cancelled to do lack of, well, pretty well everything. The headache is ameliorating, although there is still a thumping party going on in my ears, but the sharpish subcostal (under the ribcage) pain is back with a vengeance, reducing me to do nothing much today other than sleep.

Bob will however be up to doing something rather different! From the guide, the plan today is:

Day 6: Namche Bazaar (3446m)

(Acclimatisation Day)
We remain at Namche Bazaar for a second night to allow for proper acclimatisation to the altitude. Namche is a prosperous village situated in a large protected hollow. It gained its importance during the period when Tibetan salt was traded for the lowland grains of Nepal. Today a limited amount of trade still exists at Namche and Tibetans are often seen in the village trading rugs and Chinese-made goods, clothing, salt and dried meat.

It is recommended that you take the opportunity to see both the sunrise and sunset views from the national park headquarters above the village. The stunning vista includes a superb panorama of the Khumbu peaks and great views of Everest. After breakfast, a variety of options exists. Perhaps a walk towards Thami (3810m) above the beautiful Bhote Khola River Valley or a visit to the national park headquarters to see the interesting displays of Sherpa lifestyle and culture. There is also a mountaineering display and information on the park’s flora and fauna. Your guides are on hand to offer advice and escort you on walks.


I'm sure Bob's plans to access telco services in the foothills of Mt Everest were rather over optimistic - he was able to give me a three minute telephone call from Kathmandu on Monday morning, however there has been no other contact, and I expect that the prospects will merely diminish over the next three weeks or so until he returns to Kathmandu.

According to the tour itinerary, this is what he is meant to be up to today:

Day 5: Namche Bazaar (3446m)

(Trekking: approx 4 hours)
Today the walking is a little tougher and includes a steep ascent to Namche Bazaar. From Monjo it is a short walk to the entrance of the national park, before we cross the Dudh Kosi River to Jorsale (2805m). The trek continues upstream on generally flat terrain, crossing back to the right bank to the confluence of the Bhote Kosi and Dudh Kosi Rivers, where we start the steep climb to Namche Bazaar. After crossing a large and stable suspension bridge high above the river, we slowly ascend at a steady pace. There are some fantastic photographic opportunities as the peaks of Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Ama Dablam and Taweche (6542m) come into view for the first time. After arriving in Namche Bazaar, we enjoy lunch with the afternoon is free to bargain in the shops for Tibetan artefacts or simply relax and marvel at the beautiful scenery.

Bob's not too good with suspension bridges, so that should be interesting.

My health hasn't been so great of late, although I was a fair bit better today. I have been wracked by headaches for a couple of weeks and that has eased. My vision is still very dark, so I'm doing the opposite of the earth hour programme - finding that I need lots of lights on to be able to see (and still wondering who put the lights out). The rain over the last couple of days, meant that I didn't get out for the exercise I so badly needed, with less guilt than I would have had if the weather was fine. I was able to walk down to the doc's office today and pick up a prescription this morning, but that wasn't so much.

With the rain clearing this afternoon, it turned into a pleasant day, despite the fairly strident wind, it was a warm westerly and quite refreshing.

A temporary change in blog content and focus


Bob has winged his way to Kathmandu and while he is away he requested that I restrict emails to essentials, while noting down more newsy items in the blog. This way, while he is off in the High passes of Everest, in those villages which may have internet access so that he can keep things simple as the bandwidth may allow.

So ~ the plan is for the next six weeks that this blog shall include lots of boring bits for other readers (except that I know that you've all given up on me by now after a prolonged period of inactivity of blogging and inactivity of, well, activity. Hopefully the later shall improve over the next little while, while I attempt to get a few health problems sorted out.

It's hard to kid yourself that you're still young, when . . .


The President of Russia was born after you. Sigh.

Click for Hanoi, Viet Nam Forecast

About me

  • I'm Carolyne
  • From Canberra, Australia
  • I love to run! Staying in Weymouth, Dorset on the South West Coast of England until October. I'm 46, live in Canberra with Bob and have been running since 1990. This has been interrupted by long periods of illness, however I am extremely stubborn! I'll never be a fast runner, however I give it everything, and am slowly learning to read my body better and adjust my training and expectations accordingly. Or rather I would, if running were possible at the moment - I will retuyrn soon.
  • My profile

  • <>Vietname vs Brazil Olympic Football Friendly 8PM 1 aAugust 2008
  • A Hot time in the Old Town tonight
  • <>Trip to Nha Trang and Da Lat 4 August to  August 2008
  • Flights Booked
  • <>Scooter Trip to Ninh Binh  aAugust 2008
  • Planned
  • <>Trip to Cambodia and Siem Riep 17 August to 24 August 2008
  • Flights Booked & 2 Nights accomodation

  • Long Course Tri 2k/83k/20k 12 February 2006
  • Sri Chinmoy Long Course Tri 2.2k/80k/20k 6 March
  • Backpacking Laos & Vietnam 14 March to 26 April 2006
  • Thailand Temple Run 21k 19 March 2006

  • Customs 5k Fridays
  • BBQ Stakes  6k Wednesdays
  • Tour de Mountain 19k 18 December
  • 1:55:02 Results
  • Cross Country Summer Series 5k Tuesdays in November
  • Cool Runners Six Foot Track Slow Jog/Walk 46k 25-27 November
  • Wonderful!!
  • Sri Chimnoy Triple Tri Relay 20 November
  • 1:55:38 1:04:53 1:22:55 Results Report Photos
  • Tour de Femme 20k Fun Ride 13 November
  • 40:40ish
  • Bonshaw Cup 6.4k 16 November
  • 30:30ish
  • Hartley Lifecare Fun Run 5k 17 November
  • Belconnen Fun Run 6k 12 November
  • 28:38ish
  • Mt Majura Vineyard Two Peaks Classic 26k 5 November
  • Last! 3:08:00 Results Report
  • Wagga Tri-ants Duathlon 10k/40k/5k 30 October
  • Scratching
  • Bulls Head Challenge 27k 23 October
  • 2:20:49 Results
  • Weston Creek Fun Run 6k 16 October
  • 32:02 Results Results
  • Fitzroy Falls 42k & 10k 15 October
  • Results
  • Orroral Valley 20k 9 October
  • 1:52:44 Results
  • Sri Chinmoy 10k 3 October
  • 0:50:14 Results
  • Duathlon Championships 10k/40k/5k 23 September
  • 3:09:07 Results
  • Canberra Times 10k 18 September
  • 0:45:30 CR TE AM!
  • Sydney Marathon 11 September 3:47:13
  • ACTVAC Half Marathon 21.1k 28 August
  • Entered DNS
  • Black Mtn UpDown GutBuster 5.2k 16 August 0:33:38
  • Results
  • Mt Wilson to Bilpin Bush Run 35k 20 August 3:15:14
  • Results
  • City to Surf 14k 14 August 64:17
  • Bush Capital Mtn Runs 25k 30 July  
  • 2:17:09 Results
  • Shoalhaven King of the Mtn 32k 17 July
  • 2:53:15 Results
  • Sri Chinmoy Off Road Duathlon 3.3k/23k/7.7k 2 July 2:40:29
  • Results
  • Woodford to Glenbrook  25k 26 June DNF Injured Results
  • Terry Fox 10k 19 June 46:59
  • Results
  • Aust Mtn Running Champs9k 18 June 1:06:33
  • Results
  • ACTVAC Monthly Handicap 9k Farrer Ridge 29 May 0:46:05
  • ACT Mtn Running Champs  9k 28 May 1:06:50
  • Results
  • SMH Half Marathon 22 May 1:41:56 (1:40:50)
  • Results
  • ABS Fun Run 7.3k 19 May 0:34:45
  • Results
  • Canberra Half Marathon 15 May injured Results
  • Sri Chimnoy 10k 8 May 0:47:55
  • Results
  • Nail Can Hill Run  1 May 56:23
  • Results
  • Newcastle Duathlon  24 April 2:45:39.2
  • Results
  • Canberra Marathon  10 April 3:47:56
  • Results
  • Women & Girls 5k 3 April 22:53
  • Results
  • Sri Chimnoy 10k 28 March 47:56
  • Results
  • Weston Creek Half Marathon 13 March 1:43:23
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  • Sri Chimnoy Long Course Tri 6 March 5:30:35
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  • Hobart International Triathlon 20 February 2:52:05

  • Canberra Capital Triathlon 30 January 3:01:43
  • Results
  • Medibank Private Australia Day8k 26 January 38:39
  • Results
  • Lorne Pier to Pub Swim 1.2k 8 January 22:12
  • Results
  • Lorne Mountain to Surf 8k 7 January 0:37.56
  • Results

    moon phases

  • 5k 20:11 Cairns 2000
  • 10k 43:49 Moruya
  • City to Surf 1:02:57 2000
  • Half Marathon 1:33:50 Steamboat 2000
  • Marathon 3:47:56 Canberra 2005
    Chip Time (3:47:13) Sydney 2005

  • Kilometres Run
    January 212
    February 199
    March 214
    April 201
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    June 182
    July 255
    August 246
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    December 62
    Year to Date 2,267

    Last posts

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  • Kama, Krama, Kramar Chameleon
  • Restaurant Review - Siem Reab
  • Back from Angkor Wat
  • Update
  • Notes from a Rainy Da Lat
  • Overnight Scoot to Tam Dao Hill Station
  • Viet Nam Plans

  • Days Sick
    January 10
    February 10
    March 10
    April 4
    May 7
    June 8
    July 9
    August 11
    September 11
    October 11
    November 9
    December Lots. ?15

    Distance Swum
    February 17,400m
    October 3,800m
    November 4,150m
    December .
    Distance Cycled
    November 120km
    December 297 km