Day 9: Dingboche (4360m)

(Trekking: approx 6 hours)
From Thyangboche we descend through forest of birch, fir, juniper and rhododendron, to the nunnery at Debuche. Along the way we keep an eye open for blood and Danfe pheasant, musk deer and, high on the steep slopes of the valley, Himalayan tahr. After half an hour of fairly level walking we cross the Imja Khola River and gradually ascend to the village of Pangboche, where the peak of Ama Dablam dominates the skyline. We take lunch here and perhaps view the beautiful monastery that once housed a scalp reputedly belonging to the legendary yeti. In the afternoon our route ascends gradually high above the Imja Khola River and passing tea houses at Orsho before crossing river again and old glacial moraines, on the way to our lodge in the settlement of Dingboche. The scenery is spectacular and although Everest here disappears behind the Lhotse-Nuptse ridge, the huge peaks that tower above the eastern end of the valley are ample compensation. We are now almost completely above the tree line and, in clear conditions, can look out for spectacular sunsets here and on Ama Dablam. Today’s walk is quite tiring due to the altitude, so it is important to take notice of your trek leader’s advice and recommendations regarding rest and fluid intake.

The trek for the first 3 days has been fairly easy, but once we leave here it will get harder and harder. We've trekked along a river valley, surrounded by forest and immense mountains. The only means of transport from Lucla - the town into which we flew from Kathmandu - is the path along which we travelled. It is highway, with many trekkers - in groups and individually - and enderless streams of porters loaded down with huge packs resting on their backs by a strap across their foreheads, interspersed with caravans of yaks also loaded down. All the materials for construction and all the necessities of life for all the villages we visit come in this way. The mountain sides are covered with small pine forest, except where it has been cleared for cultivation.

The weather is crystal clear each morning, but cloud steadily increase during the day. The overnight temperatures so far have been about 5-6, and daytime about 13-15. I'm sure both figures will drop as we climb.

There are 12 in our group: 2 pommies, 2 South Africans and 8 Aussies. We have the main guide, Tisha, who is very competent and experienced, supported by 4 assistant guides and several porters. The guides ensure that we travel slowly, allowing us to acclimatise and keeping the group together. I'm sharing a room with Trent, a 59 year old from Adelaide and a good bloke.

Our room looks onto a large mountain, over which immense snow covered peaks tower straight up.

Day 7: Thyangboche (3875m)

(Trekking: approx 6 hours)
From Namche Bazaar, we climb towards the park headquarters and follow a contouring trail high above the Dudh Kosi River. Above Namche the route to Thyangboche becomes visible with the monastery seen nestling below the summit of Everest and surrounded by other Himalayan peaks. On today’s walk there are opportunities to spot local wildlife including the beautiful Danfe pheasant, often seen among the birch and silver fir forest between Shanasa and Trashinga, and Himalayan Thar, on the high ground above the trail. After reaching the reforestation nursery at Trashinga, the trail drops steeply before crossing the Dudh Kosi River at Phunkitenga (3250m) where we take lunch. In the afternoon we pass water-driven prayer wheels and ascend, initially steeply, through pine, fir, black juniper and rhododendron forests towards Thyangboche. The monastery and our lodge are located in a beautiful meadow surrounded by towering Himalayan peaks in a truly peaceful and tranquil setting. The most notable peaks seen from here are Kantega, Ama Dablam (perhaps the most beautiful peak in the region) and, of course, Mount Everest.