After the HHH experience the night before, we woke surprisingly well and early. Breakfast was definitely on the agenda! A shared continental breakfast with extra coffee and a couple of excellent crispy, still warm baguettes served us well. We discussed are constantly evolving plans, and looked into some of the National Protected Areas in the district; it is difficult to visit them independently, at the very least one needs a local Lao speaker and a guide. Bob found an excellent trek though, 3 days with 2 nights spent camping under canvas in the bush. It would be relatively expensive for the two of us, although the cost would come down if others were involved. A brief sojourn to the fountain at Nam Phou to discussed the options and logistics (we need to extend our Visa, in Vientiane, by Friday at the latest). We were of a like mind, and decided to go for it, leaving tomorrow.

So for the next few days we will be out of contact as we hike through some thick jungle and camp out on Monday and Tuesday night. We return on Wednesday night, and will stay again in the excellent Vayakorn Guest house (USD $15 night - room 107), probably spending two days in the Capital fixing up our visa's, arranging money, laundry and internet, and doing those things of the revolution that stops on the weekend - The National Cultural Hall, The Museum and so on. Would also like to jog/walk/cycle down to the southern reaches of the Mee Kong along a (Canberra term) bike path.

We attempted to get our photos transferred to CD, and much to Bob's temporary chagrin, the girl in the photo shop deleted them from the camera. Stuff happens.

We wandered back up to the Triumphal Arch and took a couple more photos, there being loads more people, especially locals when we visited today. Bob made a great new friend though as we were leaving. He had bought us both ice creams and a young novice monk said something to us as we passed. It took a moment to comprehend, but he dashed back and asked if he would like one too (I've been trying to explain to Bob that they collect their alms in the morning, but do not eat after midday). He opted for water and we chatted most amicably for quite a while, he keen to improve his English. He was the most charming young man. We exchanged telephone numbers, and he rang us while we were eating on the riverfront tonight.

(Bob: We are having a wonderful whole grilled fish. Have you had dinner?
Novice: I do not eat dinner
Bob: (with great sincerity) I am so sorry for you . . . )

We shall contact him when we return from our trek and he has invited us to see where he lives in the Wat.

After we re-visited the Arch, we continued on to That Luang Stupa, the most significant site in Vientiane. Bob had lunch at a local noodle joint, while I walked around a bit and saw much of the local character. Within a block radius of the Stupa there were at least two dozen eateries. I then saw more, 9,10,11, 12 . . . so many places to eat! I was invited into a rocking kind of party at one ("Come and join us!"), but declined. After sending Bob back to the hotel in a tuk tuk, I continued exploring, seeing the austere triple tri (anglular) roof of the National Assembly, and the very impressive (but the revolution is closed on Sunday) National Revolutionary Museum.

I then just wandered back, following the nose of my face and the garmin on my wrist. Wandering down any likely looking street (most unpaved), and coming across another Buddhist festival in full flight with lots of fluttering flags, drums and chanting. Some areas were solidly middle class in an Australian context, whilst in others loomed huge Greco-Laotian style Mcmansions (extra chilli, hold the special sauce). Huge columns loom to the top storey in an imposing manner, providing a sentinel over the heavy rendered walls and wrought iron and gold coloured gates and ornamentation. Next door may be a typical rural Lao house, woven rattan walls, or a mixture of teak planks, with thatching , shingles or color-bond (preferably blue) roofing. Usually, the other house in under slow construction in the grounds as well.

Bob napped, then we met and arranged to be de-haired at a local beauty/massage place that waxed. There were many options, but this looked particularly good and was not much more expensive. We had the waxing of our lives! Although I'm sure that girls were brought from far and wide to look and marvel at this falang's hairy legs, and there was some amusement when looking at Bob's, we were whisked away to a very nice room, where Bob had a muscley male masseuse pummel his legs and de-hair them with a fine tooth set of tweezers, whilst I had one, and then two women to work on mine. No monotonous Enya here, the traditional Lao music was wonderful!

A cup of sweet tea to finish, and the purchase of an English language book to read before we headed off to dinner of 2 whole fish, their skin encrusted with salt and stuffed with garlic and lemongrass, on the banks of the Mee Kong watching the sun set and thousands use the dry river bank (think of the Todd River in the Alice) being used as a giant fun fair of people riding bikes, horses, playing countless games of soccer, volleyball, badminton and the wonderful local SE Asian game like volleyball and a small rattan ball using their legs and head. A parking area contained thousands of bikes,
to be continued